Sometimes cleaning of this area can easily solve the problem. If that is not the case, your refrigerator is not cooling, but the freezer is working. In this case, you may consider bringing in a professional technician to replace the evaporator fan motor to get it working properly and get your refrigerator back to the proper temperature. Your refrigerator most likely includes a defrost thermostat system that includes a defrost timer that will signal the system to run several times during the day.
The purpose of the system is to remove frost from areas where it may build up and cause issues with your refrigerator and freezer.
If you see frost buildup in your freezer, or you see frost anywhere on the back of your refrigerator and freezer, chances are you have an issue with your defrost system. This is definitely the type of problem that should be remedied by a well-trained technician who has the expertise and parts necessary to remedy this problem quickly. As we said earlier, this is a problem that may not seem obvious at first.
If frost is building up anywhere on your system, your freezer should still work properly but your refrigerator will get warm. More often than not, when a freezer is cold but the fridge is not , this is definitely an issue that is best left to professional technicians to repair. If cleaning your freezer and moving items around does not solve the problem, it is time to talk to the helpful experts at FIX Appliances CA.
We have years of experience in this field. Our industry-leading technicians are fully equipped to handle any issues with the refrigerator with a working freezer and an inoperable refrigerator.
Make the first step by giving us a call or filling a form and let us show you how easy it can be to get your refrigerator back to the proper temperature. Begin for appliance repair in Ottawa and other Toronto areas, same day service available.
Please call to check availability by calling and toll-free number today before noon. Were having a problem with the fridge cooling and the technician was on time, polite, knowledgeable and diagnosed the problem quickly. Good cleanup afterwards and explained things as he went along. Would use again and highly recommend for others. Refrigerator broke over the weekend and we called over the weekend.
The repair man came on Monday, figured out the issue and ordered parts which came 2 days later. By Friday the fridge was fixed and working well so far. The repairman was efficient and polite.
Would recommend. Check the map to confirm the service area nearest to your city or town. Samsung is one of the widely-spread electronics companies all over the world. Its kitchen and laundry home appliances Had same problem on my Kenmore. Was the fan in the freezer compartment that forces cold air up to th fridge. Had somehow become cocked and hit something that stopped it dead. Just straightening it solved the problem. Motor did not burn up so don't need a new one.
This problem is not mentioned in your fixes. I'm having the same issues with my refrigerator has been a while now every months the refrigerator part starts getting warm I believe the defrost heater isn't working as it should ice builds up and stops the fan from circulating air I have to disconnect for a couple of days and let it thaw and then reconnect and then works just fine can anybody tell me where the defrost heater is located or how to change it out.
I had a defrost heater replaced and the defrost thermometer replaced and it worked fine for a few days but now it's doing the same thing! So what could be the problem now!? There may be a problem with the damper unit not allowing cold air from the evaporator fan to enter the fridge. Don't know your fridge but some side by side fridges have two evaporator units with fans, one in the freezer and one in the fridge.
Search online for " insert make and model number of fridge parts" to find suppliers that may have exploded parts diagrams which will show you how the fridge is set up i.
If it is a 2 evap unit setup then there may be a problem with the fan in the fridge or perhaps the temp sensors etc. It could also be a problem with the fridge temp sensors in the fridge on a 1 evap unit system telling the control board that it is cold enough when it isn't. I have similar problem, the freezer is working fine but no air is blowing in the fridge.
I checked all the component and I guess the are all working fine. The only thing that surprised me is that the air start blowing in the fridge as soon as opened the freezer.
Assuming that you have a Maytag Mffvew2, see my answer 5 above this one how to check if the evaporator fan is working or not without having to take the cover panel off in the freezer compartment to actually see if it is working or not. When a door is opened either door the evaporator fan which is located inside the freezer compartment behind a panel mostly unless your model has two evaporator units therefore two evap fans will stop to prevent cold air being blown out of the compartments.
It will start again when the doors are shut. Try manually operating and releasing the switch one at a time to see if the fan turns on and off when the door is open, simulating closing and opening the door s. Do not confuse this fan with the condenser fan which is outside the compartments near the compressor and can be running regardless of the doors being open or shut as it is there to cool the condenser coils. The evaporator, evaporator fan, defrost heater and defrost thermostat are located behind the evaporator assembly cover.
The cover is removed from the front on the inside of the freezer compartment. Once the cover is removed you can see the fan and check if it operates by manually operating the door switch which should turn off the light and turn on the fan with the door open.
The link I posted earlier has the parts locations diagrams see Cabinet parts for the cover, part for the fan, for the defrost heater and for the defrost thermostat I think that that is it even though it is called thermal insurance but it looks like it. If the fan and evap unit is iced over i. The refrigerator will be warmer than it should be because no cold air is being blown into it by the fan.
Disconnect the power from the fridge and use an Ohmmeter to check the defrost heater. Normally it should test Ohms. If it is OK check the fan motor. If both OK check the drain hole tube.
The drain hole is located below the evap unit and during the auto defrost cycle, drains the melt water to the evap pan under the fridge. If it is blocked then the water can't drain away during the defrost cycle, and it will refreeze and build up until it covers everything and stops the fan etc. Pour a measured amount of water down the drain hole not too much and check that it all gets to the evaporator pan under the fridge. Avoid using a hair dryer on high heat to melt the ice on the evap unit etc as this can damage the evap unit and also the freezer liner which is very thin and cannot be replaced.
You just have to let it melt by leaving the door open and the power off of course. The fan should blow air into the refrigerator, but the diagram doesn't show any air duct or vent in the refrigerator compartment. Maybe there is another fan that sucks air up from the evaporator unit and blows it into the refrigerator compartment. The parts list shows Fan Ass B as well as fan motor but it is not shown on the diagram. So I'm not sure what this part is or where it is located or it is even the same fan.
If there is a vent in the refrigerator cabinet that's where the air might come out from and it may be that there is a fan behind it. Is there an equivalent hole or maybe a grill, vent plate or an opening in the walls somewhere inside the refrigerator compartment - anywhere because if it is a tube it might be fed through the body of the cabinet to come out anywhere inside the refrigerator compartment?
Most refrigerators have an air duct feeding from the freezer compartment to the refrigerator compartment. Sometimes the air flow is controlled by a movable flap in the duct, which helps to more precisely control the amount of cold air to be fed into the refrigerator.
It is usually referred to as the damper control. The "controlled" damper type is usually on the more sophisticated models and there is no mention of it in the parts list, but most all still will have the duct as the cold air has got to get to the refrigerator compartment somehow because there are two distinct separate compartments and the "cold" is generated in the freezer compartment by the refrigerant passing through the evaporator unit and then being distributed by the evaporator fan to both compartments.
Maybe the tube feeds around the walls of the refrigerator and keeps it cool that way, I don't know. Wouldn't a authorized repair service for the refrigerator be cheaper than a new one? Maybe you could contact them and ask about the blocked tube.
Sometimes repairers can be helpful and give you an answer without having to come out. Worth an ask anyway. You would be no worse off if they wouldn't tell you. Everything is defrosted although there was ice building up so i cleared that and i'm still having issues. I did notice something today though. The evap fan only seems to push air into the fridge when the freezer drawer is open.
Would that indicate anything in particular? What tells the evap fan to turn on? It will stop when a door is opened either door and start again when the doors are shut. Usually this is controlled by the door switch. You don't want to be blowing cold air out of the compartments with a door open.
If there is no switch visible it will be a magnetic reed switch with the magnet in the door and the reed switch in the door jamb somewhere. You would have to look at the parts diagram for the location. Search either searspartsdirect. The damper baffle is used to control the amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment.
The temp sensor in the refrigerator compartment is used to signal the control board as to what the temperature is. So when the set temp is reached either the baffle is closed if the freezer needs more cooling it has its' own sensor to prevent the fridge from getting too cold or perhaps if the freezer temp is also at the set temp then the compressor and evap fan are both switched off until the temp has risen again to the pre-determined temp an they are both started again to drive the temps back down again so as to maintain a reasonably even temperature range in the compartments.
Show 8 more comments. One more think to look at. I was having the same problem. Freezer was cold but refrigerator was actually hot. On mine it ended up being a stuck door light switch. My GE built in uses four 60W bulbs. They were staying on all the time. The heat generated from W of lightbulbs just overwhelmed the ability of the fridge to keep cold.
I unscrewed the light bulbs and the fridge started cooling down again. I have a new switch on order. Mike Diaz iotriton. My freezer is cold but fridge is not cold so I switched it off 24 hours and cleaned ice inside and start again so it was working perfect for a few days.
Then ice builds up in the freezer and the fridge is not cold but freezer ok. Danny fixitnow My freezer is cooling just right, my refrigerator is not cool at all. I feel like my evaporator coils are frosted over because there is 0 air flow coming into my fridge, but the damper control assembly is doing its job. Here is where I get confused, could it be evaporator fan motor, thermistor, temperature control board, or defrost thermostat?
This fan is controlled and given the signal to turn on and off if I'm not mistaken right? So what could it be or how can I move forward with my fix. My fridge and freezer are no longer keeping items Frozen or cold like it should. It also recently started making a low buzzing like sound and has frosted over a lot on the back panel.
I'm on a fixed income can you please tell me if it's salvageable? Thank you for any help you can offer. My fridge temperature is not working the fridge is warm and temp not going down how do I solved the problem. Sure enough, there was a wall of ice back there, also blocking some air vents.
A defective evaporator fan motor will slowly cause the refrigerator side to stop cooling due to lack of circulation. Test the motor by turning the fan blade by hand. A noisy fan is also a sign that it needs to be replaced. If you have an LG refrigerator not cooling, it could be a faulty defrost control board. Refrigerators use a timed defrost system to maintain a stable temperature and prevent the evaporator coils from getting completely frosted over.
This system works thanks to a defrost control board that engages the system at certain intervals. If the temperature gets too high or low, the control board turns the compressor on or off respectively. A broken thermistor will cause the compressor to run too often or not enough leading to improper temperatures. Test your thermistor for continuity with a multimeter and install a new one if needed. Not all of these issues are easy to fix on your own.
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