Q: Several years ago, I planted some bulbs in front of my house. Each year they grow and look very healthy, but each year I get no flowers. Any thoughts on why? A: That's actually fairly common with some types of bulbs. Some bulbs "peter out" over time, usually due to lack of sunlight, overcrowding or dwindling nutrient reserves. Most varieties of tulips are notorious for that. But it also happens around trees where the tree roots outcompete the bulbs for nutrients while the expanding canopy each year shuts off more and more sunlight the main way a bulb gets energy to recharge itself.
One way to correct this assuming your bulbs aren't not-blooming because rabbits or deer are eating the unopened buds is to dig up the bulb cluster, separate the bulbs, work an inch or so of compost into the bed, and then replant as you would new bulbs. It would also help to work in some granular bulb fertilizer with the compost, something like Bulb-tone or Bulb Booster. October is the ideal month to do this division, but you can still get away with it this month or also next spring, right after the bulb foliage starts to die back.
Many spring bulbs do best in full sun. Having a proper site for your bulbs is one of the most critical steps in ensuring they will come back. All bulbs are different, so remember to look up the recommendations for the specific bulb you are planting. If you realize your bulbs are in a less than ideal site, you can take a risk and dig them up and relocate in the fall. Some bulbs may be unsalvageable due to rotting or because they do not respond well to disturbance.
Proper planting time is all dependent on a soil temperature, which controls the bulb growth cycle. For most spring bulbs, fall is the most ideal time to plant. This is when we get the cooling soil temperatures that signal root growth. Bulbs that are planted in the fall will establish roots at the base basal plate and help it get off to a good start next spring. In the spring when temperatures start to rise, plant growth increases and leads to flowering.
The new cycle will begin at the end of summer with organ formation in the bulb. In general, planting when soil temperatures are too warm above 60 degrees Fahrenheit can lead to disease and rot. Planting when soil temperatures are too cold below 40 F can lead to improper root and shoot development. A good indicator of when to plant is when nighttime temperatures are consistently between 40 F and 50 F. It is always helpful to reflect on any unusual or extreme changes in climate patterns.
As mentioned previously, the bulb growth cycle is largely dependent on temperature. Warm temperatures in summer are needed for organ formation, including the flower meristem. Cooler temperatures in fall and winter signal root growth and shoot elongation. The return of warm temperatures in the spring influences plant growth and flowering. Any interruptions or extreme changes in length can disrupt this cycle. Was it unusually hot or cold this year?
Unusually warm or early springs cause faster plant growth but result in smaller flowers and a shorter duration of vegetation, which can ultimately lead to less vigorous bulbs next year.
An unusually cool summer can suppress flower bud development and even cause the formation of vegetative buds instead of floral buds. An unusually cold winter can increase the risk of bulb mortality. Was it unusually wet or dry this year? A drought year can lead to insufficient water supply in the bulb and can affect flower bud survival, especially through an unusually warm autumn or winter.
An unusually wet year can cause bulbs to rot in the soil. The depth at which you plant a bulb plays a large part in how the bulb will be buffered from climate extremes and distance the plant will have to grow to reach the surface. The proper depth is based on the size of the bulb. In general, plant the bulb three to four times as deep as the bulb height.
If you have a tulip bulb that is about 2 inches tall, plant it so the base of the bulb is 6 inches below the surface of the soil. Were the bulbs planted too deep? We must remember that the plant is running off the nutrients built up in the bulb.
These stored resources will either be enough to get the plant to the soil surface and beyond, or not. This may be the case for smaller bulbs that are planted too deep. Sometimes you do not see the effect of planting too deep until a few years down the road because the original bulb has enough resources to grow, while those produced the following years do not.
They become weaker and weaker due to insufficient nutrient build up. Were the bulbs planted too shallow? If a bulb is planted too shallow, it is more likely to be exposed to the above-ground temperatures and disruptions in the growth cycle.
In the case of daffodils, being planted too shallow leads to the development of non-flowering new bulbs. Being too close to the soil surface could also be fatal in the case of unusually cold winters. Below is a list of common spring bulbs and recommended planting depths based on the usual, purchasable sizes. As mentioned above, planting depth depends on actual bulb size.
Keep that in mind when planting if you end up with some unusually large or small bulbs in the mix. Another possible cause for the lack of bulbs in spring is animal damage.
There are two primary ways animals can negatively affect bulbs:. It is important to remember that not all wildlife eats or disturbs flower bulbs, and not all flower bulbs are susceptible to animal damage. If you are suspicious of wildlife damage, check the diet of the suspected animal first.
If their leaves are small, the bulbs may have to be dug up and divided. After several years, they often become crowded and starved for food. Dean Fosdick via Associated Press. Other things to consider if bulb foliage develops but the blooms don't follow: — Timing. Gardeners know from woeful experience that you can't control the weather. Now they fix spines instead The bizarre story of a doctor who allegedly lied about hypothermia to get a helicopter rescue How can we help veterans feel remembered?
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